November 24th, 2025 | 8 min. read
Learn how to find the perfect kitchen products with our Appliance Buying Guide
TL;DR: Appliance Installation Fit Guide (2026)
Fit problems usually come from the path in, door swing, power, or real depth, not the opening. Measure the path first, then the opening, and confirm with photos before you buy.
- Fridges: Thick doors need turning room and side space. Plan 3 to 5 inches per side and 42 inches to an island.
- Induction: The range may fit the cabinet but not your panel. Most 30-inch models need 50A, 240V. Send panel and outlet photos.
- Wall ovens: Measure the cutout, not the cabinet face. A 27-inch cabinet needs a 27-inch oven.
- Laundry: “27-inch” sets install about 35 to 38 inches deep with hoses and venting. Measure doors and turns, or go ventless.
You’re excited. The refrigerator is on the truck. No more living out of a cooler. The crew is at your door.
It doesn’t fit.
This happens every day for a handful of reasons: door swing, handle depth, or a tight hallway turn. Sometimes it’s a wall oven cutout off by a quarter inch.
Sometimes the induction range fits the cabinet but not the electrical panel. Sometimes the dryer vent is deeper than you planned.
In this guide, I’ll show you the main culprits and exactly how to make sure your next refrigerator, range, wall oven, or washer and dryer actually fits your space.
Measure once. Confirm with photos. Avoid the return.
📌Skip Ahead:
- Measure the Path First (10-Minute Checklist)
- Wall Oven Fit: Cutout Sizes, Fast Measuring, What to Bring
- Induction Fit: Electrical Panel, Amps, and Opening Checks
- Laundry Fit: Real Depth, Venting, Closet Pinch Points
- Refrigerator Fit: Path In, Door Swing, Clearances in the Kitchen
- Final Checklist: Avoiding a Return-to-Warehouse Mistake
- Appliance Installation FAQs
A Quick Yale Story
We deliver from Greater Boston through the South Shore and MetroWest to Cape Cod and Nantucket. We’re serious about fit.
We even send qualified staff for site checks in Boston and nearby towns.
And still, out of about 100 to 150 deliveries a day, a couple come back because something didn’t fit.
It’s a hassle for you, and our goal is to prevent it before it starts.
Top Culprits and the One Fix for Each
| Most Common Miss | One Fix that Prevents It | |
| Refrigerators | Thick doors/handles need a bigger turn radius; side clearance for French doors | Measure the entire path; plan 3–5" side clearance* and ≥42" island gap |
| Induction Ranges | Fits the cutout, not the panel (amps/wire) | Panel photo + outlet photo; most 30" need 50A/240V |
| Wall Ovens | Cutout height off by ¼–½"; 27" cabinet ≠ 30" oven | Measure the cutout (not face frame) in three places; if 27" cabinet, buy 27" |
| Laundry | Depth + hoses/vent; closet and doors steal space | Plan 31–34" true depth (or go ventless); measure doorway/turns first |
| Delivery Path |
One tight turn or storm door stops the show |
10-minute path check: doors, halls, stairs, landings + photos |
What Should You Measure First: The Opening or the Path?
Before you start: measure the entire path (not just the opening).
Boston’s South End and Back Bay brownstones, plus older suburbs like Needham, have narrow doors, twisting landings, and occasional elevator constraints.
Most returns happen on the way to the opening.
Do a 10-minute path check and snap 6 to 8 photos:
- Front door width (storm door off)
- Tightest interior doorway and hallway
- Stair width and landing depths
- Ceiling height above landings
- Elevator cab/opening (if applicable)
- Destination opening
Not sure? You can see these appliances in one of our six showrooms: Boston, Framingham, Hanover, Hyannis, Nantucket, or Norton.
Bring your measurements and photos, and we’ll sanity-check fit on the spot.
We can also set up a site check to verify everything at your home.
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How Do You Make Sure a Wall Oven Actually Fits Your Cabinet?
Most wall ovens are electric (gas exists but is less common). Nominal sizes are 24, 27, 30, and occasionally 36 inches.
In practice, your cabinet dictates the oven.
Hard truth: A 27-inch wall-oven cabinet will not accept a 30-inch oven without replacing the entire cabinet, which typically triggers a larger redesign.
If your cabinet is 27 inches, buy 27. There are still good models.
Quick Fit Table
| Typical Cutout (W × H) – Single | Typical Cutout (W × H) – Double | Common Retrofit Moves | |
| 24" | ~22–22½" × 23–24" | — | Euro/condo size; check hinge/door thickness |
| 27" | ~25½–25⅝" × 28–29" | ~25½–25⅝" × 50–52" | Older 27s were shorter; often need build-up filler |
| 30" | ~28½–28⅝" × 28–29" | ~28½–28⅝" × 50–52" | Most common; trim hides gaps, not height |
| 36" | Manufacturer-specific | Manufacturer-specific | Rare; expect cabinet work |
Measure What Matters (Fast)
- Cutout width (top, middle, bottom)
- Cutout height (left, center, right)
- Distance to adjacent doors and handles (swing)
- Toe-kick height
- Panel photo (we’ll read the breaker)
Special Cases
- Combi-steam or steam over a single: shorter overall stack than a true double, but plan for electric (often a different amp draw) and a water line for plumbed steam models.
- Warming drawer under a single: verify toe-kick height and support cleats.
- Gas to electric: add a new 240V circuit with the right amps.
What to Bring
- The five measurements
- Three photos:
- Cabinet front
- Inside the cutout
- Electrical panel
We’ll map oven to cabinet on the spot, line up trim or carpentry if needed, and schedule install without surprises.
Prefer we measure? A qualified installer can do it for $199 (credited when you proceed). If you don’t, you still have precise specs.
How Do You Know If Your Electrical Panel Can Handle Induction?
On paper, most induction ranges follow the same cabinet widths: 30 inches (most common), stepping up to 36 inches, and a few 48-inch models.
They slide into the same openings as standard electric or gas ranges. There are two things you need to know.
- Electrical is the deal-breaker. Amps and wire decide everything.
- Sneaky fit detail: older slide-in cutouts where the cooktop overhangs the countertop. Only a few models were like this (popular about 10 years ago). Check for that lip.
Electrical Essentials:
- Dedicated 240V line.
- Most 30-inch induction ranges require 50A (older electrics were often 40A).
- 48-inch pro models can be higher, up to 100A.
- Four-wire is standard. Receptacle vs. hardwire is fine, and cords allow some flexibility.
- 208V buildings (for example, certain Boston high-rises) will work, but peak output is lower.
- Gas to induction in Massachusetts: cap the gas and pull a new 50A/240V line. Budget about $3,500 locally.
Pro Move:
Text us these three photos and we’ll confirm “yes” or “no” quickly:
- Your range opening
- Your breaker panel, with the amp numbers visible
- Your outlet or hardwire setup
Measure What Matters:
- Opening width (30 / 36 / 48 inches)
- Counter overhang into the opening (older slide-ins)
- Back-wall protrusions (molding, gas stub)
Cookware Check:
If a magnet sticks to your pan, you’re 90% there.
If Your Panel Is Tight:
- Choose a lower-amp electric range
- Use a 120V portable induction cooktop as a bridge
- Or we’ll coordinate an upgrade with a licensed master electrician
Why Don’t Modern Washers and Dryers Fit Older Laundry Rooms?
Electrical is usually simple (washers 120V; full-size dryers 240V; Miele compact pairs both 120V with a splitter; combos 120V).
The problem is size.
Today’s full-size front-load washers and dryers are 31 to 34 inches deep, plus about 4 inches for hoses or venting, which means 35 to 38 inches of real depth.
Our parents’ top loaders were about 25 inches deep. Today’s machines are taller and wider, and unlike refrigerators, you can’t remove doors to “shrink” them.
Older laundry rooms (hello, Needham) often have narrow doors and tight turns.
| Nominal Size | Real Installed Depth to Plan | Typical Height | Common Pinch Points | |
| Full-size front-load (side-by-side) | 27" W each | 31–34" | 38–40" | Laundry-room doorway; closet casing; rear elbow |
| Full-size front-load (stacked) | 27" W | 31–34" | 74–80" | Ceiling/soffit; closet header; service access |
| Compact 24" set (ventless) | 23.5–24" W | 26–28" | 67–70" | Elevator cab depth; condo fire doors |
| All-in-one combo (120V) | 24–27" W | 28–31" | 33–40" | Longer cycles; door clearance |
*You may also need to add 4 inches for the dryer vent.
Venting Notes
Rear elbows effectively add 2 to 3 inches, and long, twisty runs choke airflow. Ventless heat-pump dryers solve depth and airflow in one move.
What to Bring
- Path measurements
- Opening measurements
- 6 to 8 photos
- Your vent path (diameter, run, elbows) or a plan to go ventless
- The models you’re eyeing (or just your closet dimensions)
Prefer we measure? A $199 site measure is credited when you proceed.
How Do You Make Sure a Refrigerator Fits Through the House and Opens in the Kitchen?
Counter-depth doesn’t mean “no problem.”
The bigger max-capacity counter-depth styles (for example, “Counter-Depth Max” or mega) often have thicker doors and handles, which increase turn radius on stairs and landings.
They also need room to open once installed.
Plan Your Clearances
| What Bites | What to Measure | Rule of Thumb | |
| 36" counter-depth French door | Door/handle thickness = bigger turn radius | Stair width vs case depth (doors off) & landing depth vs case height | Stair width ≥ case depth + 1–2"; landing ≥ case height + 2–3" |
| “Max” counter-depth | Side clearance to open French doors & drawers | Distance from hinge-side to walls/cabinets (both sides) | Plan ~3–5" each side |
| Island in front | Doors/bins hit island; can’t remove drawers | Opposing counter gap | Aim ≥ 42" for comfort |
| 33" openings | Specs vary by ⅛–¼ | Opening at three heights + hinge-side wall distance | Bring numbers; we’ll match true 33-fit models |
*We’ll confirm exact model clearances during selection.
Delivery Pro Move (Fridge Edition)
We remove refrigerator doors and handles before carrying it in.
That makes case depth (front to back) the number one limiter on tight turns, not door width. We plan the rotation sequence and hinge protection.
If any pinch point is close, we’ll suggest a different model or route so you don’t reschedule.
Zero-Clearance Hinge Reality
Some models open bins at 90 degrees with minimal side clearance.
- For standard 36-inch counter-depth models, LG commonly offers “zero-clearance” hinges (confirm per model).*
- Many built-in and column systems (for example, premium lines) use hinge designs that minimize side rub; we’ll verify per SKU.*
*We’ll mark “opens bins at 90 degrees” in your shortlist.
What to Bring
- Path photos: doors, halls, landings
- Kitchen photos: opening + nearby walls or island
- Measurements: opening, hinge-side clearances, island gap
- Delivery math: stair width, landing depth
Prefer we measure? A $199 site measure is credited when you proceed.
Conclusion: How Do You Avoid a Return-To-Warehouse Fit Mistake?
Old homes weren’t designed for today’s appliances. Door swings are wider. Laundry is deeper. Induction needs more amperage.
That’s why “it won’t fit” happens more than you think, and why reselecting and waiting for a second delivery is the most expensive part of a cheap mistake.
Use this guide, take a few photos, and measure the path plus the opening.
If any number looks tight, tell us. We’ll match the right refrigerator, range, wall oven, or laundry to your home so you only do delivery once.
Short version: measure once, confirm with photos, avoid the return.
Additional Resources
Want more information on the worst renovation mistakes to avoid? Get the Free Appliance Buying Guide to learn how to avoid a renovation failure. Well over 1 million people have read and trusted a Yale Guide.
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